Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 40, Number 9, 1 September 2023 — Celebrating Hawai'i Fashion at the Aloha Shirt Festival [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Celebrating Hawai'i Fashion at the Aloha Shirt Festival

MOKU 0 KEAWE —

By Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi

It began with sunset cocktails at Kona Inn in fall 1997. Among those talking story with Kumu Hula George Na'ope were Chelle Pahinui; her husband, Cyril, of slack key guitar fame; and Evan and Gwen Olins, who sold fine "Hawaiiana" antiques and collectibles, including new and vintage aloha shirts, at their store, Hula Heaven, at Kona Inn Shopping Village. As the sun went down, Na'ope shared his idea for an aloha shirt festival. 'Aloha shirts are as synonymous with Hawai'i as poi and surfing," Pahinui said. "Everyone from beachboys and athletes to movie stars and presidents have worn them; they're our islands' most well-known contribution to the fashion industry. "Unele George's idea was to have an event that eelebrated the aloha shirt as well as traditional wearable art, including lei, kapa, woven lauhala and 'ohe kāpala (bamboo stamping). He thought vintage, traditional and eontemporary Hawai'i apparel should be featured, attracting collectors and fashionistas as well as supporting loeal designers, artists and artisans. He and Cyril were fashionistas to the max. They loved wearing clothes that showed off Hawai'i's unique style." Pahinui agreed to spearhead planning for the festival. With the help of a County of Hawai'i grant, it launched at Kona Inn in November 1998 with a barbecue buffet, live entertainment headlined by Cyril, and a month-long exhibit of vintage aloha wear from the Olins' private eollection. "Ihe intent was to do the event annually, but Kona Inn had limited space for growth," Pahinui said. "Since Unele George taught hula in Keauhou, it was preferable to have it on the west side of the island. I contacted other hotels there, but nothing jelled."

Na'ope passed away in 2009; Cyril in 2018. Pahinui was busy running her family's farm in Kona and serving as the executive director of Na'alehu Theatre, when Outrigger Hospitality Group purchased a hotel in Keauhou in 2021 and rebranded it the Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa. With the new acquisition eame an opportunity to revive the Aloha Shirt Festival. Outrigger Kona eame on board as the venue, and the event was reintroduced in 2022 without mueh fanfare. This year, with Na'alehu Theatre again serving as the producer, it's being widely promoted as the Aloha Shirt Festival, Vintage Era Exhibit and Fashion Week Hawai'i. Primo Brewing Company, whieh traces its beginnings back to 1897, and Jams World, whieh is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, will be spotlighted in the exhibit. In addition to apparel, attendees ean view the eompanies' original advertisements, textile artwork, swatch-

es and production sketches. Two fashion shows will unveil creations by some 15 designers from throughout Hawai'i. The evolution of Hawai'i's clothing industry will unfold eaeh night on the runway, from hand-stamped kapa and plantation palaka to styles influenced by immigrant groups and looks that are head-turners today. Mieah Kamohoalii will open Friday's vintage-themed show and close Saturday's show of contemporary fashions. The renowned Hawai'i Island kumu hula wowed critics at Fashion Week New York in 2021 and Fashion Week Fondon, Milan and Paris last year. He also won a coveted Emmy award this year for a 30-second television commercial, "Calling the Winds/Hole Waimea," promoting his brand, Dezigns by Kamohoalii. Pahinui says this all adds up to a celebration with numerous benefits and great potential. Hawaiians' first fabric, kapa, was made from native plants, trees and flowers, whieh inspires interest in them. The festival also raises awareness about, and demand for, loeal apparel. "Visitors get to know Hawai'i designers and heeome loyal customers," Pahinui said. "To them, aloha shirts aren't just souvenirs; they're cherished items to keep in their wardrobe for years. In fact, the Japanese are major collectors of aloha shirts. "Ihe festival is a plaee to learn about the Hawaiian eulture and creative kama aina whose ancestors eame to the islands from all over the world. Diverse ethnic groups have influenced past and present designs. Aloha wear is not only a Hawai'i thing, it's a global phenomenon." ■

The Aloha Shirt Festival, Vintage Era Exhibit and Fashion Week Hawai'i is set for Thursday through Saturday, September 28-30, at the Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa. The Vintage Era Exhibit wiil be on view Thursday and Friday from 12:00-5:00 p.m. and Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Admission is free. Runway shows are Friday and Saturday from 5:00-8:00 p.m. Admission is $40 per person for two drinks, swag bag and runway seating; $175 per person for dinner, two drinks, swag bag and seating at a VIP tabie. Aiso pianned are a lū'au; Lei contest; marketplace localfashion companies, individualdesigners and wearabLe art and accessories; a book-sign-ing appearance by MeLeana Estes, author of Lei ALoha: CeLebrating the Vibrant FLowers and Lei of Hawai'i; and workshops on Lei, kapa, 'ohe kāpaLa and ho'oponopono. Visit www. aLohashirtfestivaL.com for more information.

Simply Sisters dress and Elizabeth Lee pōpale. - Photo: Chrisfm Johnson

Uncle George Na'ope and Cyril Pahinui. - Photo: Chelle Pahinui

Ui Makai. - Photo: Kevin Sebastian

w^~ II Dezigns by Kamohoali'i. - Photo: Peggy Ruelke