Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 20, Number 04, 1 ʻApelila 2003 — Food for the body and spirit [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Food for the body and spirit

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By Claire Hughes, Dr.PH., R.D. Early Hawaiians were keen observers of everything in nature and created a naming system that linked nature with their environment. The naming system described plants and natural phenomena with precision. Capturing particular characteristics of seas, tides, winds and rains, it often eonnected a unique occurrence to a location or plaee. Our ancestors also attributed spiritual qualities of their gods to these gifts of nature. For example, Hawaiian farmers named and classified varieties of kalo according to specific characteristics, such as color, length, shape, or other notable features found in the steam, leaf or other plant parts. For Hawaiians, kalo has immense cultural significance. The first kalo grew from the plaee where Wākea and Ho'ohōkūkalani's first-born, Hāloa, was buried. Many older Hawaiians consider Hāloa to be

their older sibling and, when asked about their origins, would say that they eame from the taro patch. Kalo is a kinolau of Kāne. Those who eat poi or taro receive the mana of Kāne in the form of nutritional and spiritual strength. When the calabash of poi is placed on the table, it is expected that all conversation and behavior be respectful in the presence of akua Kāne (god). Experienced Hawaiian fishermen are able to observe and name the types of oeean and determine what kind of fish are running. Many fish are kinolau of specific Hawaiian gods, whose mana is passed on to the person who eats the fish. 'Ama'ama (mullet) and 'āholehole are called "sea pigs" and are»kinolau of Kamapua'a, kinolau of k.ono 1 and akua of rain, agriculture and peaee. The kinolau of the edible tree-ferns is Haumea, also known as Papa, the Earth Mother. While all traditional foods provide necessary vitamins, minerals, fiber and other nutrients, they also transfer the mana, or spiritual support, of the gods to the body. Kupuna Mary

Kawena Pūku'i shares a great deal about this aspect of foods in her book, Uhe Palynesian Family System in Ka 'ū. Many mo'olelo talk of natural events and their spiritual signifieanee. For instance, "ka ua Kuahine o Mānoa" is the famous rain of Mānoa Valley. It is a misty rain that moves slowly in a wave-like motion down the valley and appears to be brushing against the mountain side. This rain is distinctive to Mānoa and Nu'uanu on 0'ahu.The mo'olelo of Kuahine, chiefess and wife of Kahaukani, tells of their daughter who was so beautiful that rainbows appeared wherever she was. Kuahine was transformed into this rain after the tragic death of her Kumuhea, the son of Kū, is the caterpillar-god. He is said to have risen from the depth of the oeean. Loli (sea cucumber) and baby eel are Kumuhea's kinolau. In his animal form, Kumuhea journeyed to Moloka'i and then to Ka'ū on Hawai'i, where he built a home on a hill called Pu'uenuhe (caterpillar

hill). Later, he married a mortal woman from Ka'ū and took her to his home on the hill. He fed her only sweet potato leaves, his favorite food. The steady diet of sweet potatoes leaves soon made his wife weak. Afraid that his wife would die, Kumuhea acquired more wives and fed them sweet potato leaves also. The father of Kumuhea's first wife feared for his daughter's life and he prayed to Kū for help. Hearing the worried father's prayer, Kū took away Kumuhea's power to assume human form. From that time on, Kumuhea has only been able to assume a spirit form that resembles man, but he ean no longer live as a man and take a wife. When angered, Kumuhea ean be destructive and devour fields of sweet potato leaves. His anger is unrelenting. It is said that anyone related to Kumuhea who breaks the kapu that forbids eating one of his forms, usually dies. While Kumuhea ean bring death and destruction, the other gods are more benevolent and are mueh revered. B

Ke'anae farmers Ali'ltoa Kimokeo and Leo Ka'auamo harvest kalo, perpefuating a traditional practtee that links them with thelr ancestors and provides food that nourishes their bodies and splrits.

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