Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 17, Number 7, 1 July 2000 — Feather work flies high in Kapnhulu [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Feather work flies high in Kapnhulu

Story and photos by Manu Boyd WHEN YOU think of Hawaiian featherwork, you'll likely conjure up the image of "the feather lady," the stately Hawaiian artist/instructor, eomplete with colorful mu'umu'u and feathered combs, popularly known as "Aunty Mary Lou." A regular at craft fairs and exhibitions throughout the r islands, Mary .

Louise Kaleonahenahe Kekuewa minds her business at 762 Kapahulu Ave., an inconspicuous nest, 741 square-feet, tucked between the popular 'awa bar Hale Noa and Mailboxes etc. Along with her daughter, Paulette Nohealani Kahalepuna, she manages the fami-ly-owned business, Nā Lima Mili Hulu No'eau (skilled

hands touch the feathers), a fitting name bestowed by the late cultural expert Edith Kanaka'ole. "Years ago, when Aloha Week was headquartered at the Honolulu Armory (the present site of the State Capitol), Leilani Femandez, a well-known feather worker, was helping Elaine Mullaney with ribbon sales, and I was in charge of costumes. Aunty Elaine, an excellent crafts teacher who shared mueh knowledge with her Queen Emma Hawaiian Civic Club, urged me to study with Leilani. My

fīrst lei hulu was of dyed goose feathers in the wili poepoe style, also known as 'lei Ka'ahumanu' like those worn by the Ka'ahumanu Society." From the very first feather she secured, Aunty Mary Lou developed a deep love for the artform and heeame the top in her field. "Some of the old-timers like Johanna Cluney

and Tsugi Ka'iama did not teach, so the techniques were not readily available. Leilani taught me different styles, and I've also leamed by observing others, by studying traditional pieces, and of course by trial and error."

Featherwork traces to the ancient chiefs who eommanded difficult-to-get feathers of mountain birds for their royal regalia whieh enhanced their mana. Today, featherwork, particularly lei, adom all walks of life from Hawaiian benevolent society mem-

bers to hula dancers to cowboys. For many years, the Kekuewa 'ohana has also created lei hulu for the trustees of the Offīce of Hawaiian Affairs, presented biennially at their investiture. Kāhih, the commanding feather standards with plumes arranged at the top of lengthy poles, are impressive in their display at Bishop Museum's Kāhili Room. See FEATHERWORK on page 13

'Mama doesn't like to close down doing regular hours, because someone might need help or supplies' — Paulette Kahaiepuna

■ i.mam — i iii i iiaaai^ In her shop ehoek full of supplies and memorabilia, business owner Mary Louise Kekuewa, left, spends hours eaeh day sharing stories with customers and instructing students on the art of Hawaiian featherwork.

FEATHERW0RK From page 12

When Aunty Mary Lou and her late husband "Unele Paul" Kekuewa were approached to create kāhili for the Bishop Memorial Chapel, the museum pieces were an inspiration. "We made eight paii of kāhili to represent eaeh major island, ; pair for Princess Pauahi's pew at the reat of the sancmary and a pair for the altar." Traditionally fashioned in eompanionlike pairs, the altar kāhili

eomhine elegant white rooster hackles with skirts of electric blue peaeoek neek feathers, 30,000 in eaeh, meticulously stitched six times apieee mimicking the Kamehameha Schools' colors. All 20 kāhili in the _ ehapel are of namral color and original design. "When you love what you do, seemingly impossible tasks seem mueh more do-able," said Kekuewa's daughter, Paulette, as she mmmaged through containers of pheasant feathers, easily handling a conversation while working simultaneously. "We're here every

day, teaching, creating and running the family business," she said, adding that an accountant handles all the books and ; finances. "We teach one-on-one and have worked with many hālau who favor a adornments of lei hulu (feather lei). When Paulette or Mary Louise invited to demonstrate their art off-island, be it in Califomia, at the Merrie Monarch Festi"i ■— ~ — ^ — i

val in Hilo or in the South Pacific, one stays behind to man the store. "Mama doesn't like to close down doing regular hours, because someone might need help or supply," remarked Kahalepuna. All of Nā Lima Mili Hulu No'eau's feathers — including, duck, pheasant, mallard, Canadian goose, peaeoek, Frankolin and Chukkar — are flown in from New York. "Onee in a while, we'll get a loeal pelt, but by-and-large, our stock is imported. We buy feathers by the pound and sell them in lesser quantities. Even if we have to import them, feathers — m are mueh easier to obtain today

than in days of old," she said, referring to the ancient bird catchers who skillfully snared birds, removed a few feathers, and released them. Kahalepuna onee had the ehanee to fashion a lei from priceless feathers of now extinct native 'ō'ō, 'ō'ū and the endangered 'apapane, whieh the family had accumulated over many years of repairing heirloom lei hulu. When asked about the price tag on such a rare lei, she replied with characteristic generosity. "I presented the lei as a gift for a very special hula performance. All I asked for in retum was a photograph." Nā Lima Mili Hulu No'eau is open

daily except Sunday. Hours are from 9 a.m.-9 p.m., Monday through Friday, and 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. on Saturdays. "Feather Lei as an Art," a comprehensive, fullyillustrated book by Kekuewa, Kahalepuna and Karen Edlefsen, is also available. For information on classes, or to purchase products and supplies, eall 732-0865. ■

Kekuewa created this eape, "'Ahu'ula o Mailelani" in memory of her mother, Catherine Mailelani Rose Peek.

As manager of the family feather business, Paulette Kahalepuna explains the secret to their success is that they truly love what they do.