Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 13, Number 1, 1 January 1996 — Wai ʻanae gets upscale, "local" eatery [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]
Wai ʻanae gets upscale, "local" eatery
Native Hawaiian Revoiving Loan Fund Report
by Patrick Johnston Rural communities, for all their charms, are not known for their haute cuisine. And there is no reason why they should be. Residents usually have better things to do than worry about fine wines and paie de foie gras. But this doesn't mean they are going to turn down a good thing when they taste it. Native Hawaiian Revolving Loan Fund (NHRLF) recipients Frank and Carol Catian have discovered this with the opening of Hawaiian Isle Seafood, a seafood and takeout restaurant in the Wai'anae Shopping Center. Frank Catian calls his operation upscale, and by plate luneh standards it is. His four cooks previously worked in hotels and add an island cuisine flavor to his offerings. The menu might look familiar to regular plate
luneh apcionados but mside the ramiliar styrofoam box an appropriately placed fruit or veggie garnish indicate a little thought has gone into the preparation. "We wanted to do something more than 'two scoops rice'," Catian explains. Hawaiian Isle Seafood began four years ago as a seafood store at Waipahu Gem. Two years later, the Catians wanted to expand but uncertainty surrounding the future of the Gem site forced them to look elsewhere. "The space in Waipahu was too small," Frank Catian says. "We couldn't expand and diversify. And when Gem wanted to sell to Daiei it devastated us. All the other businesses moved out." With a large following in Central O'ahu. the Catians were originally hesitant about moving to Wai'anae. But after discussions with Wai'anae Mall management, they eame around to the idea of doing business on the Leeward coast. In making the move to Wai'anae, the
Catians decided to change their sales strategy. Instead of focusing primarily on seafood — as they had done in Waipahu- they thought they would offer more takeout and loeal style food, prepared in a slightly more upscale fashion. Frank Catian says, "I think Wai'anae deserves a more upscale restaurant, some plaee niee that's not too rowdy." He describes his meals as "loeal" with a hotel look. Hawaiian Isle offers a menu similar to other takeout spots but stresses quality and presentation. "Everything Iooks good," Catian points out. This same philosophy is evident in the elean, nicely laid out appearanee of the restaurant. So what does Wai'anae think of this high brow approach to loeal food? Catian says the response from the community has been overwhelmingly positive. "The move here has been a blessing in disguise. The Wai'anae community has welcomed us with open arms. ... Things are going really well." In addition to his breakfast, luneh and dinner offerings, Catian has also begun to offer pupus, beer, and karaoke some nights of the week after he stops serving food. "It gives the plaee a lift," he says. Hawaiian Isle Seafood also provides catering for the whole island, and he leases a large room behind his shop for banquet service. Catian, who worked closely with OHA and
Alu Like staff in order to get NHRLF financing from OHA has no shortage of gratitude for the agency. "It is unexplainable what OHA did. ... I eannot thank them enough." Hawaiian Isle Seafood ean be reached in Wai'anae at 696-7773.
i - Frank Catian (right) and a some of Hawaiian lsle Seafood staff at Catian's Wai'anae Shopping Center store. Photo by Patrick Johnston